A Day Trip to Agrigento: Unveiling Ancient Wonders and Coastal Charms

I’d like to stress that the only reason we decided to stop in Agrigento was to visit the Valley of the Temples (you must have heard of it, if not keep reading to be mesmerized!). So, we decided to stay for one night in the area to be more comfortable and take as much time as we needed to explore the landmark fully. Generally, I would have stayed a few more days in the town and done day trips towards the south-east coast. But overall, I’d say one night in Agrigento was sufficient time to see everything the Valley of Temples had to offer and then move on to visit other cities in Sicily.

We booked a room at B&B Home Scala dei Turchi, which was located outside of Agrigento but only 15 min drive from The Valley of Temples. Overall, we liked our room as it was quite spacious, and the owner was nice. He met us when we arrived, which was already quite late. But since he lives next door, it makes it convenient to get checked in any time. You just need to inform them about your arrival time.  There were enough breakfast options and baked goods were freshly made on-site.

This extraordinary archaeological site is truly unparalleled, comparable only to the ancient wonders of Athens. As we ventured into the Valley, we were immediately captivated by the mesmerizing blend of history and architecture that unfolded before our eyes. It’s a treasure trove that allows us to step back in time and gain a deeper understanding of the ancient civilizations that once thrived here.

Before exploring the magnificent temples, let’s appreciate Agrigento’s fascinating history. If you’re not interested in history, you may want to skip ahead to read about the temples and find useful tips.

The city was founded in 581 BC by Greek settlers who named it Akragas. It soon grew to be one of the richest and most powerful Greek colonies in Sicily. By the 5th century BC, Agrigento had become a center of art, philosophy, and commerce under the tyrant Theron.

It later came under Roman rule in 210 BC. The Romans strengthened Agrigento’s defensive walls and transformed its temples into churches. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, the Byzantines and Arabs ruled the area at different times. The Normans took control in the 11th century.

Over the centuries, Agrigento witnessed the rise and fall of various civilizations, including the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans. Each successive ruler has left their cultural imprint, from Greek architecture to Roman churches, contributing to Agrigento’s rich tapestry of history.

Now, let’s explore the remnants of this storied past within the magnificent temples.

It’s worth to explore those temples that grace the Valley of Temples. Each temple has its own story to tell, and we were eager to listen.

Temple of Juno:

First stop is what is now referred to as the Temple of Juno was likely dedicated to another deity given we do not know for certain its original purpose. Contrary to its popular name, the attribution to Hera/Juno is a misinterpretation of Pliny the Elder’s writings, which was actually referring to the Temple of Hera in Crotone.

Built in the 5th century BC, it follows the classic Doric order with a peripheral design, columns and a stepped basement. On its eastern front, an altar with ten steps likely hosted sacrifices.

Over time, the Temple of Juno has undergone restoration. In the 18th century, its northern colonnade was rebuilt through anastylosis, raising the columns using the original pieces.

Still standing majestically today, it offers insights into the architectural sophistication of ancient Akragas through its finely crafted details.

Temple of Concordia:

The Temple of Concord is one of the highlights of the Valley of the Temples. It is recommended to visit this temple early in your itinerary to avoid large crowds obscuring views and photographic compositions. Situated in front of the temple is a striking fallen statue, believed to depict the mythological figure of Icarus. The status brings air of mystery to the archaeological site. By arriving early, you can experience and photograph the temple’s architectural details without distraction. Your photos from this location will undoubtedly intrigue those who see them.

Standing majestically on a high promontory with breathtaking views of the surrounding hills, the Temple of Concordia is one of the most exquisitely preserved structures from antiquity. Built in the 5th century BC, it seems to have been largely untouched by the ravages of time, a testament to its architectural brilliance.

The Temple of Concordia’s current name was derived from an inscription mentioning Concordia found near the site. However, it likely bore no connection to the original purpose of the temple.

What is remarkable is how well it has withstood the centuries, largely due to its adaptation as a Greek Orthodox church in the 6th century AD, which strengthened it from within.

Temple of Heracles:

Our journey through time continued with the Temple of Heracles, a testament to the might of the Greek hero. Despite its partial ruin, the temple exudes an aura of strength and resilience.

Temple of Zeus:

Another grand structure we encountered was the Temple of Zeus, located at the edge of the ridge. Though only remnants remain today, it was once a truly massive temple befitting the king of the gods. Historical accounts describe its immense size and fine architecture. Standing before a large altar, the Temple of Zeus must have been an awe-inspiring sight in its prime. Unfortunately, much of its stone was later reused elsewhere.

Other Excavations:

Apart from the temples, the Valley of Temples boasts other fascinating excavations. From ancient necropolises to the Tomb of Theron, and colossal statue of Atlas there’s no shortage of wonders to explore.

The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento can be reached flying into Palermo, Trapani or Catania airports. It is around 150km from Catania, 130km from Palermo and 175km from Trapani. You can then drive the approximately 2 hours to Agrigento.

There is a large parking lot at the Temple of Juno entrance on the east side of the valley, with more parking space available than when approaching from the west side.

Other transportation options include regular coach services connecting Sicily’s main towns, trains from Palermo and Caltanissetta, and ferries from ports across the Mediterranean.

Once in Agrigento, the Valley is accessible by city bus, car along signposted routes, or on foot via a 6km walk from the city center along Via Crispi and Via Panoramica dei Templi.

Tickets to visit the Valley of the Temples can be purchased online or on-site. Separate tickets cost €12.00 per person, or a combined ticket including entry to the archaeological museum costs €16.80 per person. Tickets can also be purchased on-site at the ticket counters, where wait times were reasonable when visited in mid-June. Visitors also have the option to purchase a map of the archaeological park for €1 to understand the layout and location of attractions. Audioguides can be rented at the ticket counter or booked online in advance.

After immersing ourselves in ancient history, we decided to visit another popular destination in Agrigento: Scala Dei Turci. It is a natural attraction known for its unique rock formations that appear to be stone stairs leading down to the sea. The name translates to “Turkish Stairs.”

Located not too far from our cozy B&B, we took a leisurely stroll to the beach where this natural wonder awaits.

However, luck was not on our side that day. The sky was cloudy, and the waves were rough. This made it difficult to see the beautiful stair-like shapes carved into the rocks by the water. Moreover, the scala itself was blocked, preventing anyone from climbing it. We had to admire Scala Dei Turci from a distance instead.

To conclude our day in Agrigento, we treated ourselves to a culinary adventure at a Michelin guide-mentioned restaurant called Osteria Expanificio in the heart of the city.

This restaurant is a a renovated bakery that has undergone an impressive transformation into a contemporary and inviting restaurant. The name “Expanificio” is derived from the Italian words “ex” (meaning “former” or “previous”) and “panificio” (meaning “bakery”), indicating its intriguing transformation from a bakery into a culinary haven. Upon entering Osteria Expanificio, you are greeted with a modern and welcoming atmosphere.  The walls are adorned with artistic displays featuring models of bread and rolls, serving as a delightful reminder of the space’s storied past.

The menu includes a collection of Sicily’s renowned culinary delights, such as stuffed sardines, Robiola goat’s cheese ravioli, caponata, and the tantalizing “involtino alla Siciliana” (Sicilian veal rolls).

As our day trip to Agrigento came to an end, we couldn’t help but reflect on the unique experiences we had.

I invite you, dear readers, to share your thoughts and experiences in the comment section below.

Remember, fellow wanderers, the world is full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. So, pack your bags, follow the Travel Logs section for more Sicilian adventures, and let the journey continue!